Everyone keeps their Crested Geckos in their own way. On this page, we’ll show how we house, feed and care for our animals.

The Preparation:

You’ve been thinking about getting a Crested Gecko? How exciting!

Crested Geckos (Correlophus ciliatus) are not dangerous and are likely one of the most popular geckos kept as pets.

This is due to their calm nature and manageable size. They are naturally very friendly animals available in many different color morphs

However, it’s important to carefully consider the following points before making a purchase:

• Crested Geckos, like many other reptiles, are not very active and do not enjoy being handled or taken out of their terrarium daily. (This can cause stress.) Additionally, the animals are crepuscular/nocturnal.

So, it’s important to realize that most of the time, you’ll be looking at an empty terrarium (if they’re hiding) or a stationary gecko.

• When stressed or startled, Crested Geckos, like other gecko species, can drop their tails. Unlike other species, their tails do not regenerate. Therefore, be very careful if you want to handle your Crested Gecko.

• Crested Geckos primarily eat fruits/nectar but also enjoy the occasional cricket or similar insects.

Consider whether you’re comfortable feeding live insects to your gecko.

• Think carefully about whether you have sufficient financial resources and space in your home to provide proper housing and nutrition. Also, consider unexpected costs such as vet bills or equipment malfunctions (terrarium, heating mat, etc.).

• Consider who will take care of your gecko when you go on vacation, as not everyone is comfortable looking after a gecko!

Housing and Care:

If the above points have not caused any doubts, you can start thinking about how you want to set up the terrarium.

Crested Geckos, like all other reptiles, are cold-blooded. This means they cannot regulate their body temperature and depend on external heat sources to warm up or cool down.

We personally keep our young animals in small plastic terrariums and the adult animals in regular terrariums.


A large, lushly decorated enclosure is a feast for the eyes and a true ornament in any room!

Crested Geckos are not extremely active and typically grow to be between 25 and 28 centimeters in length. Therefore, a terrarium of at least 50 x 40 x 70 cm is sufficient for a single gecko. Of course, larger is always better!

For heating the enclosure, you can opt for a heat lamp (make sure to shield it properly so the gecko cannot come into direct contact with the hot bulb).

Crested Geckos naturally inhabit a temperate subtropical climate. The daytime temperature should be slightly above room temperature, ranging between 22 and 25 degrees Celsius. Preferably, use a low-wattage heat lamp so the geckos have access to a hotspot. At night, the temperature can drop to around 18 degrees Celsius.

Despite being nocturnal animals, the use of a UV lamp is recommended. However, use one with a low UV output, as too much UV can cause skin problems.

Try to establish a day and night rhythm, for example by using a timer for the heat lamp. Our lamps are typically set to run for 12 hours.

Further furnish the enclosure with plenty of (artificial) plants that can serve as hiding spots, climbing branches, and if possible, a side and back wall. Ensure that everything is securely fastened so it cannot be toppled over or dug under. Place a small water dish at the bottom of a branch or among the branches so the gecko doesn’t have to leave its safe ‘tree’.

The humidity should range between 50% during the day and 70-80% at night. Regular misting helps maintain humidity and is beneficial for the plants!

Avoid large temperature fluctuations and drafts, as these can lead to health issues such as pneumonia.

For substrate, we use Cocohusk/Cocopeat (fine), but other suitable materials include moss, leaf litter, humus, or bark. Of course, a combination of these materials is also possible.

The advantage of this substrate is that it absorbs and retains moisture very well, maintaining proper humidity levels.

It goes without saying that waste should be removed as soon as possible, and the water dish should be replenished with fresh water daily.

Nutrition:

Crested Geckos are primarily nectar/fruit eaters.

There are numerous ready-made diets available on the market where you only need to add water.

However, both adult and juvenile geckos also require animal proteins. Generally, young and pregnant geckos have a higher need for animal proteins.

We feed our adult geckos a ready-made paste three times a week and insects (crickets, dubia roaches, or grasshoppers) once a week. We dust the insects with a vitamin and mineral supplement.

Our juvenile geckos receive 1 or 2 dubia roaches and some paste daily.

You can purchase feeder insects from local pet stores, at expos, or as we do it: breed them yourself.

Feeder insects purchased from stores often have minimal nutritional value. We recommend feeding them for a few days with items like lettuce and a few dog/cat kibbles to boost their nutritional content.

After all, the better the health of the feeder insect, the more nutritious it will be for your gecko in the end.